By Yon Bonnie Banks

Yesterday was a looooonnnnng day of touring the Highlands - over 300 miles covered in just under 12 hours. I was exhausted, but it was truly a taste of the Highlands.

Now, I have to say my pictures won't do it justice. Pictures you have seen anywhere won't do it justice. It looks like nothing I have ever seen before and is truly worth seeing in person. Our guide kept saying it was bleak with rubbish vegetation. But in the bleakness was beauty. Though one of the funniest moments was our guide saying, "Now imagine this bleakness in the winter. It's just difficult to even survive. Not pleasant at all.... Oh, just over there is a ski resort that does nice business." 

We left Glasgow at 8 am and drove first to Loch Lomond. We had some nice views and the chance to buy a coffee or something and then drove on. We got to hear the folk song about Loch Lomond as well. Our driver said any drunk Scotsman will sing it for us whether we want him to or not. :) 

I took all sort of pictures with my camera, then at the last moment snapped one with my phone to share quickly on facebook. Naturally the best of the lot was the one taken with my phone! sigh.

We stopped occasionally for a stretch and various scenic views of the Highlands. 

My favorite was Glencoe. Glencoe is the site where the Campbells massacred the MacDonalds on orders from the English who wanted to make an example of someone to instill loyalty to the crown after Highland rebellions. The Campbells used Highland Hospitality to gave entrance and then murdered them. It's the use of the code of hospitality that bothered people the most, as warring wasn't uncommon. To this day the Campbells are not welcome in the area and that event happened in 1692.

The history is interesting, but I just found the area to be beautiful. The mountains known as the Three Sisters of Glencoe provided the background scenery to Hogwarts in the Harry Potter films. The photos don't even begin to capture the unique beauty.

I also realize that it is hard to understand the scale so the following picture shows hikers in the lower left. Those faint little dots of red and blue are people down in the valley that separated our lookout point from the mountains.

We also saw the plain where they built Hagrid's hut for the movies, but when filming was done they tore it down, so it's just and empty field now. From there we traveled on to Fort Augustus which is at the end of Loch Ness. We had lunch. A couple from the tour invited me to join them and then paid for my meal. It was very nice of them! Fort Augustus has locks to link Loch Ness through the river to Loch Oich, which then links on all the way to the sea. It was a lovely little village.

 

I'm standing at the middle of the locks and the water in the background is Loch Ness.

From there we journeyed up the coast of Loch Ness where we joined a boat tour. Well, first we stopped for an up close look at Highland cattle. They are shaggy and rather small.

 

Don't know these people; I used them for scale. :)

This one was clearly interested in talking with us as she stayed at the fence the whole time.

The Loch is huge. I never realized how big it is. Not only is it 23 miles long, it is very deep - several places as much as 750 ft. deep. Our guide said that if you took all the fresh water lochs of England and Wales, you still don't have enough water to fill up Loch Ness. 

Our boat tour, Jacobite Cruises, had indoor and outdoor seating which was nice because the weather was windy and a bit drizzly so I sat inside. We went up to Urqhart Castle, which is best seen from the water.

We then went up through Inverness which was rather quaint even though there really was a blend of old and modern. We didn't really do anything there though.

On our way home we stopped in Pitlochry which was rather quaint but clearly drawing on tourism. There were lots of little shops, but most actually closed by 5 pm. That was strange to me, an American, who can't imagine businesses not staying open when so many tours were coming through. But I bought chips and gravy from the little Fish 'n Chips shop which was good, but not as good as Canadian poutine. :)

We went by Stirling Castle, but as the sun was setting I couldn't get a good picture of it from the road. I plan to do a proper visit there later anyway. We did get to hear all about William Wallace and Robert the Bruce and how Braveheart is so completely inaccurate right down to the name. Braveheart was the nickname of Robert the Bruce not William Wallace.

So, that was my very long whirlwind tour of the highlands. Here's the link to the tour description if you are interested: Rabbie's Tours.     

Cathedral, Necropolis, and Oldest Glasgow House

Today I saw the Glasgow Cathedral.

The Necropolis, which is a very high point in the city and you can see for miles on a clear day.

I wish you tell from the picture just how far you could see and how much detail of the city and the hills was visible.

I also toured St. Mungo's Museum of Religion and Life. It was very interesting that they blended the artwork of many religious traditions in one gallery, separated more by timeline than by place of origin. It gave a sense of what was happening worldwide.

And then there is a little house that is thought to be the oldest house in Glasgow. Very low ceilings. Even I had to watch my head.

The back garden, which was done later, was really quite nice. 

Breakfast of Champions or er, um, Some People

So, I am now a registered student. That's a step in the right direction. I just wish I had a course schedule. It's so weird how I can't just log and do that sort of thing. Different system than the US for sure.

Yesterday I wandered around with Katie (she is also here from CMU). We walked to the West End and back. Saw Kelvingrove Park and a bit of Glasgow University (another major university), and had lunch at Brew Dogs. The 5AM Red Ale was the best beer I've had since arriving. Not that I have had so very much, but it was the best flavor. The draft beer is interesting because they have to pump the taps. It looks like a lot of work for a beer. The food was good, but really I've noticed all the restaurant food is a bit pricey. I think I will have to limit how much I eat out (or at least find the good cheap take out places. :) ).

Had the classic breakfast at the Royal Scotsman. So what I took for a Scottish breakfast, I have since been informed was truly an English breakfast due to the lack of blood pudding or haggis and also lack of a potato scone. Um, it was thick, heavy, and overmuch for me no matter which country wants to claim it. I won't be doing that again. In case it's not understood by the picture, the breakfast included an egg, toast, bacon (but it's more like Canadian bacon), sausage, baked beans, and half a warmed tomato. I don't know. They really like baked beans here. It's strange to me, partly because they don't have the same rich flavor beans have in the states. At least they gave me brewed coffee! Tea reigns supreme here and that is delicious. However, the predominant coffee -- instant coffee -- is not really coffee. :(

Hmm. That sounds as if I'm just complaining. Actually, I'm having a nice time. I think I was always skeptical of the food situation before coming. Different strokes and all that. 
 
  

Bits and Pieces

Duke of Wellington statue to which the Glasgweegians added a traffic cone hat. Outside Museum of Modern Art in Royal Exchange Square.

I read somewhere that when you spend too much time focused on photographing a trip or event you actually inhibit your ability to create memories of it. Matt and I always did have the philosophy to enjoy an experience first, and remember to take pictures second. I suppose that's how I'm operating at the moment because the last few outings I didn't even think to take out my camera.

I'll try to better sharing photos though since I do know it's a great way for you all to share the experience.

I'm a little homesick. It's easier not to be when I am out and seeing new things, but when I'm cooking dinner not in my kitchen or doing laundry or falling asleep alone, these are the moments when it's hardest. But that said, I'm doing okay and enjoying much about my time here.

Over the weekend I met up with my friend Becky who is from the area and she showed me around the city center, and a bit of the west end. She also got me into the library so I could see where the things I would likely need are located. We can't get in without a student ID, so it was kind of awesome that I got that help from her. It was really nice to catch up as well.

Yesterday I went into town on my own and wandered a bit. I was going to check out the Necropolis, but I wanted to find a good map of Glasgow first so I went to George Square and didn't find a map. Oh, well. I wandered over to Royal Exchange Square and went into the Museum of Modern Art or GoMA as it is called. It was a lovely museum. I really enjoyed a couple pieces and plan to go back for another visit soon. I then met up with my roommate who was nearby shopping and helped her in her hunt for shoes. That didn't work out either. I never did make it over to the Necropolis, but that's fine. It will be there another day.

Today I have decided it is a work day. Classes have not begun and I can't even register until Thursday, so it wont' be until next week that I feel settled with a schedule and routine. But I have some writing that I want to get done. So I did a load of laundry and will soon start working.

Matt asked me what sorts of things are hardest to adjust to, so here's a list of a few things:

• Doors need keys. If I lock the house door, I can't get out without using the key. I suppose that helps with not locking yourself out, but let's pray for no fires. However, the windows don't have screens so I guess that's a quick way out. ;)
• Tickets for everything! Single fare on a bus? Take a ticket. Taking the subway? You'll need your ticket not only to get in, but also to get out (have to swipe it both ways. Apparently this is to cut down on litter. I explained our token system, but that didn't make sense to them). Riding the train and about to get off at the next stop? Here's your ticket.
• No hot water. Since there are not water heaters with standing hot water in most places, you turn on the hot water tap and it's just as cold as the cold tap. It will eventually warm up but not in time for hand washing. This is why we have an electric shower. It's sort of like the on-demand systems in the US, but a little different. 

Oh, and I've had a few questions about the election aftermath. The "riot" in George Square was not as big as it's made out to be. It was just some hardcore people on both sides yelling a bit, throwing a few things, lighting a few flares/fireworks, and singing songs at each other. It was over in a few hours. Most people here on either side are completely embarrassed about it and had hoped that everyone would accept the results with grace. The vast majority has accepted the outcome with grace and dignity. Some of the photos shared, in an effort to stir resentments, were actually of the the London riots of a couple years ago. So, be skeptical. I'm perfectly safe here. No worries.

Can't Seem to Cross the Damn Road

So not getting used to which way cars are coming from. Got confused and stepped out and a car whipped around the corner and almost hit me. Good times. Not sure when I'll get used to this.

Things that are just different in weird ways:

• They put yellow lines on the outsides of the roads and white in the center, but white also delineates the driving lanes. So basically there is no real guidance to where the center of the road is.
• Yield triangles are painted on some of the lanes at intersections, but they actually look like pointing arrows...which would make you think that might be the direction cars head in if you aren't used to the whole driving on the left side of the road thing. Sigh.
• Dish soap is washing up soap.
• The exit is labeled "way out" and entrances "way in."
• These examples lead me to believe they are fond of superfluous prepositions. I'll have to keep my eye out for more. :)
• And, all things...haggis? I leave you with haggis crisps (their word for chips):

Voting for Independence

 

Source: BBC

It has been interesting to be in Scotland for the vote. For the record, I did not stay up all night because they said the results would be in in the morning, and that was correct. I'm not Scottish. I've got nothing invested in the results, so it was rather easy to go to bed. :) 

George Square was very festive yesterday. People milling about and excited to vote Yes. Bagpipe music. Today there were still people milling about, some protest songs being played and other debates. It was cordial but much more subdued. 

Most of the people I know wanted independence. I have talked with a couple people that wanted to remain part of the UK. Both sides had sound reasons for their decisions. I've heard, and seen a lot of chalk graffiti stating that those who voted no were just sheep or didn't know how to think for themselves. But it's unfair. The no voters I talked to were very thoughtful and felt like either way it was a balance of give and take. Being part of the union is not all negative. They also felt like all politicians lie and promise the moon, but rarely can deliver even if they mean well. They sounded very pragmatic to me.

I have trouble understanding the desire to divide. From the perspective of an American, the idea of dissolving a union just because the politics are different is quite troubling. Even if you want to argue from a cultural standpoint....still, in the US, culturally the northeast has very little in common with the southwest, but somehow we make it work. Sure we bicker a lot... a lot, a lot. :) But a small nation that doesn't export much doesn't seem like the strongest way to go. Although the Yes side says it was not just nationalism at play, it really sounded that way. It got very aggressive.

Still, it was democracy in action. Over 89% of eligible voters turned out. It was 45 to 55% in favor of union. That is pretty clear. Most people were saying it was decided and that was that. Unfortunately some hardcore Yes campaigners are saying it wasn't decisive, naming calling those who chose to stay in the union, and then this evening George Square devolved into two side throwing things at each other. I saw it on the news. I had left before that began. I really hope that the Yes side accepts the democratic process (and stop claiming it somehow wasn't democratic), and can channel their energy into moving the country in the direction that gives more voice to Scotland. So far it sounds a bit like they've thrown their hands up. It's a disappointing reaction, but they need some time to wallow. Hopefully, they adjust. Because it could become a very bitter place. Although the vote was clear (no hanging chads... I'm looking at you Florida!), it was still nearly half the population for and half against. 

 

Leave the Country...Win Fabulous Prizes!

I leave tomorrow. TOMORROW!! Argh! Breathe. Breathe.

I have been amazed by and am grateful for all the support and positivity being sent my way as I get ready to go. I have been stuffed (so many wonderful invitations to dinner over the last couple weeks. mmmm), caffeinated (delicious, delicious coffee), and treated to some of the most wonderfully thoughtful gifts that I can take along to help me cope with the family separation. 

I am almost overwhelmed by the awesome shows of love and support from family and friends alike. I am truly blessed to be a small part of so many people's lives. An event like this brings to light all those connections. I'm just so incredibly blessed! Thank you all so much.
  

Preparing to Go

Perhaps it is time for a revival of this blog since there is going to be so much to share as I go to Scotland. It's hard telling how much time I will have for blogging though. I suppose this post is a rumination on how I feel with the anticipation of leaving weighing heavily.

If I want to complete the requirements for my PhD in history, I have to do this study abroad year. We had been led to believe Matt would be able to take sabbatical early and the family would be able to spend at least half the time with me, but that did not work out as planned and they will not be able to come with. They will join me for a month long visit near Christmas though. That will make things a little easier. 

I'm grateful for the outpouring of support we are receiving from friends and family. So many people want to see this year go as well and smoothly as possible for us. So many wish me success and give me support for what I am trying to accomplish. 

But there is the judgement as well. The "how can you leave your kids for that long?" or the more subtle "it's amazing that you can have the opportunity, but I don't know if I could do it". Little slights about how hard it will be for Matt and the boys, questioning why I can't wait until they are older, and wonderings about how I can put myself before my kids. I guess my first response to all of that is do people really think I haven't agonized over all of that myself? Of course I have. 

But here's the deal. I am a person in my own right. I had my own goals and dreams before my kids were born, and I do not believe that those dreams have to be sacrificed for my children. Furthermore, I actually believe that to give up on my dreams sets a poor example for my kids. I think that my boys will see that anyone, at any age, can and should do what they are driven to do. Being a scholar does not negate being a parent nor does being a parent negate my ability to be a scholar. As I told Gabe, not to be immodest, but I'm kind of smart and I just don't feel fulfilled unless I'm using my brain. What being mom gives me is a different kind of fulfillment that I wouldn't trade for anything, but I refuse to believe that being mom (in 2014) means that I have to give up other aspects of my life. 

Speaking of 2014, it's sure annoying how un-progressive our thinking truly is. "How will Matt handle the household?" "How can he do all the work of taking care of the boys?" "Children need their mother!" sigh. Matt has always been quite domestic (actually much more so than me). It never occurred to either of us since the beginning of our marriage that household responsibilities would be anything other than divided fairly equally. He does the dishes and the laundry. Always has with few exceptions (I was so bored in South Carolina that dishes and laundry seemed entertaining!). Yes, it will place a greater burden on him for these eight months. But he is fine with that because he supports my need to continue my education. And yes, children do best when they have the support of both their parents, but my being away won't negate that either. I will be part of their lives. They will know my love. The annoying thing is that this wouldn't be viewed in the same way if Matt was leaving for work instead of me. I guess if you ever want to know how far we still have to go towards equality, buck the trend and you'll realize we are nowhere near.

So, I leave in a week. It's hard. There are days that I just can't feel excited about the opportunity because all I can see is how much I am going to miss my family. The activities and programs that I won't be there to witness. 

But, kids are adaptable. They will learn  through my example that you can do what you set your heart and mind on and accomplish goals, even if it's later in life than you originally thought it would be. They will learn that being a parent does not have to mean surrendering your entire identity to your kids. 

Plus, they'll get a pretty kick-a$@ trip to Scotland. :)